Making
an Accurate Estimate for Painting
Inspecting
the Condition of the Existing Paint
When inspecting most paint jobs, I
carry a scraper, a dusting brush, a clean rag, and sometimes a wire brush. I
also use those tools to inspect the caulk, wood, trim, and substrata such as
masonry.
An inspection of the exterior will
turn up a wide range of conditions, from sound paint to paint that is cracked
or peeling. Exposure to a wide range of temperature and moisture conditions
will wear down any finish over time, no matter what the climate. The south side
of the house might be weathered and peeling, while the north side only needs a
good cleaning and touching up. Be sure to look for water damage from the roof
or near the foundation where water might pool.
An interior inspection is the same:
Search out weak areas where the paint has loosened or cracked, while also
checking the paint that has held up well. Check around the windows for loosened
putty, look for grease build-up in the kitchen and mildew in the baths, inspect
the condition of the trim, and examine the walls and ceilings.
Even paint jobs a few years old may
show signs of paint failure—areas of flaking, peeling, cracking, and
blistering. Paint that's covered with layers of grime actually may be in great
shape, so first lightly rub an area to see what comes off. When a good paint or
stain starts to go (at an average 8.5 years, although that figure fluctuates
quite a bit), it gets a dull chalk on its surface. Chalking, or slight flaking
of a semi-transparent stain, tells you that it's time to recoat. If all the
surfaces are chalking without more severe failure, you're actually in luck. The
whole process of recoating will take less work and paint.
Consider the Present Paint Condition
When launching painting projects,
people often neglect to consider the condition of the existing finish. I
recommend that you make a close inspection of the entire painting area, keeping
the following questions in mind: How extensive will the project be? Is there
any part of the existing finish that can serve as a match for the new finish?
Is the existing finish in good enough shape to take another coat? Besides being
full of surprises, this examination also will show you where to begin work.
When assessing the paint's condition,
I make a point of inspecting the surface underneath the paint. It's not enough
to notice where the paint is failing; any underlying problems must be
addressed. A thorough examination of the existing conditions gives you a good
starting point for the painting project and keeps re-dos to a minimum.
Planning a Job
There's more to buying paint than
picking a color you like. Every house painting project has unique features,
from room size to neighborhood architecture that should be taken into account
for your home to look its best.
Design
considerations
Interiors and exteriors present
different design issues. When choosing colors for the inside, you should
consider the rooms themselves. Do they feature lots of woodwork, or hardly any
trim at all? Do you want to make a small room look larger, or vice versa? Don't
forget to consider your furniture and carpeting or flooring, unless you're
starting from scratch and want the furnishings to match the walls. You may want
a bright kitchen and a subdued dining room. You may want to give each room a
distinctive color, or you might choose one color for the whole house. Your
possibilities are endless, but give them some thought.
Paint sheens present another
consideration. Sheens range from flat, the least reflective sheen, through
eggshell, satin and semi-gloss, to glossy, the most reflective. I recommend a
high-quality flat or eggshell paint for most rooms because it's easy to
maintain and touch up. A glossier finish is almost impossible to match, even
with identical paint. The gloss fades over time, and not always evenly. A flat
finish, on the other hand, has no sheen to fade.
Sheen can emphasize the different
qualities of your rooms. Bedrooms usually look good with a "quieter"
finish such as a flat or eggshell, whereas a dining room might benefit from a
satin finish, which softly reflects light. Kitchens and bathrooms should be
painted with a washable sheen such as a semi-gloss (flat latexes are hard to
clean and tend to wash off). I've always found that a semi-gloss or satin
finish sets trim off nicely. If you'd rather downplay the trim, use a flatter
finish, such as eggshell. It's a good idea to stay away from glossy ceilings.
They attract too much attention and tend to diminish the size of a room.
When selecting exterior colors, you
need to consider wide-ranging factors, including the style and roof of the
house, surrounding colors, and the climate. Start with the roof: The new color
scheme should match it. I can think of a few houses that have vibrant exterior
paint, but never look quite right because the color doesn't match the roof
(until the roof is covered with snow).
Architectural styles also influence
color choices. A Queen Anne-style house, with its many layers and patterns,
will often have a shade and color for each architectural feature. In contrast,
colonial styles usually have only one body color and one trim accent. But no
law says you have to paint according to the style of house. You can choose to
accentuate any favorite detail, whether it's your front door or another focal
point.
Roof, style, brick, and stone fall
into the "constant" category. Constants are the parts of the house
that don't change often, and therefore are primary considerations in any color
decisions. If you're seeking the advice of a paint store, I recommend taking a
few photos of your house along so a color professional can better evaluate your
home's constants.
Climate is a big consideration.
You'll notice that region influences many color trends, such as the sharper
hues used to brighten up the muted light of the Northwest. Cool pastels are
better suited to the harsher light and dry terrain of the Southwest.
If you live in a country setting, the
landscape may help determine the basic tones for your exterior. If you live in
a city, you may be influenced by your neighbors' choices. Some neighborhood
homes seem to be competitively individual in their design, while another
neighborhood shares similar color schemes. What are the accent colors in your
neighborhood?
Whatever criteria you use in your
color decisions, beware of trends. Prevailing fashions may not suit you or the
region where you live. The earth tones that swept the country in the late 1970s
were designed to complement the countryside, but a lot of them ended up on
urban houses, where they looked dull. Paint companies' brochures often reflect
the current trend. Remember that there are thousands of choices available,
despite the emphasis companies place on certain hues or colors.
Narrowing
your selection
Every paint store offers brochures,
color chips, and color fans that feature combinations for every style and
taste. Many stores have refined the selection process with programmable
computers.
I've found that paint chips alone
aren't enough to help me make a good choice. The manufacturers' brochures state
as much, in small print at the bottom of the page, where they note that
"the color of these chips may not perfectly match the paint you
order." That is because most brochures use color dyes, whereas paints are
colored with pigments. About 80% of the people I work with say the color they
get is darker than what they expected. For this reason, I recommend going a
shade lighter.
Next, try out a quart of the color
you like. Far too many homeowners rush out and buy gallons of what turns out to
be the wrong paint, then blame the store. There are lots of reasons that paint
can appear off-color, but color mixing is seldom one of them, especially if you
go to a reputable store. That's why, starting with a small amount is so important.
The first color you pick isn't likely to be the one you will keep, and you
don't want to be stuck with custom-mixed gallons you can't use. It's not
uncommon to go through 8 to 12 quarts in the search for the perfect shade. That
may sound like a lot, but considering how expensive color consultants are,
spending $50 to $100 for the perfect paint is a good buy. You should be able to
do more than just "live" with the color you pick: You should be happy
with it.
Whether you're matching an existing
color or refining your selection, the process won't be complete until you've
verified your choice with a "brush-out." 5 brush-outs let you see how
the color you've selected actually looks before you invest in the total amount
for the job. To do a brush-out, simply make one brush stroke from the mixed
quart of paint on a detail or siding (or on a sample of that material). After
the paint has dried (one hour for latex, two for oil-based paint), view it in
different light and at different times of the day to see how you like it.
Brush-outs also are a good way to match
touch-up paint. Touch-ups can be difficult because paints and stains age
differently—some fade while others darken. Take a sample of the work to be matched
to the paint store. Do yourself and the store a favor and take a big sample,
not just a chip of the existing paint. Sometimes I'll take a window, a cabinet
door, or a piece of siding. That way, the newly mixed paint can be applied
directly to the existing paint, blow-dried, and held up to the light for a
match test.
Estimating
the Project Size
If you're planning on doing the
painting yourself, your most important consideration probably will be the
quantity of paint and material that you will need. The bulk of any estimate
starts with measuring the total area of the paint project. To do this, you only
need a tape measure, paper, and a pencil.
As you gain experience, you may
notice other variables, such as the age and condition of the surfaces, figuring
into the estimate. The more difficult estimates involve older structures that
teem with "hidden agendas," or minor repairs that turn into major
undertakings. Blisters on exterior siding may be caused by water evaporation
from un-insulated walls. A small plaster crack may reveal large separations
between lath and plaster that need to be fixed with screws and putty. The more
you know about the condition of the surface and paint, the fewer surprises
you'll have. Older houses can fool even seasoned pros, who estimate such
mystery jobs carefully and often opt for a time and material contract.
Here are some easy formulas for
estimating rooms, doors, fences, and other features.
Interior
Estimates
To determine the area of an interior
job, begin with the walls. Multiply the height by the length of the sides, and
add the totals. Add the ceiling area to that total. Next, figure the area of
the windows and doors: If the total is 100 sq. ft. or less, don't bother
deducting it from the wall area. If it's higher than 100 sq. ft., subtract that
number.
The "height-times-width"
formula also works for trim, doors, and windows, if you take certain variables
into account. If the door has four to six panels, double its area. If it's a
French door, the area should be tripled. Handrails and balustrades are
estimated by multiplying the height by the length, then multiplying by four to
get the total surface.
Contractors have a fast method of
calculating wall and ceiling area that is almost as accurate as the process
I've just described. Simply take the square footage and multiply it by 3.5 in
rooms with an 8-ft. ceiling. For rooms with a 10-ft. ceiling, multiply the area
by 3.75. If you're painting a new house, you can simplify your estimating by
asking the drywall contractors for the total area.
Exterior
Estimates
The methods for estimating interior
surface area can be used for some exterior portions of the house, including
siding, doors, windows, and handrails. However, certain architectural features
have their own formulas:
For smooth blinds, use the standard
"length-times-width" formula. Double the area when computing slatted
blinds.
Plain eaves, add 50% to the total area.
For eaves with rafters running through, triple the area.
Plain cornices also get the standard
measurement. Triple the area if they're decorative or fancy.
For latticework, measure the area of
the lattices on one side and multiply by four to get the total. Plain fences
require a doubling of the area. Picket fences would be multiplied by four.
To make all your estimates as close
as possible, then discuss them with an expert at a professional painting store.
Hard and fast estimates are difficult to come by, even for professionals. If in
doubt, round your figures up—it’s better to have too much paint than not enough.
Extra paint will come in handy for eventual repairs and touch ups. Properly
sealed and stored, paint has a long shelf life. Any lumps or rust that is due
to oxidation can be strained out.
Estimating
the Project Time
Figuring the time for a painting job
is more complicated than estimating area. Contractors know that time estimates are
an art that takes a while to perfect; underbidding the time factor is a major banana
peel for non-professionals. A host of variables affect a time estimate,
especially for older homes: the amount of set-up and preparation, structural repairs,
the number of colors and coats, the types of doors and windows, and the type of
surface. As the saying goes, it's all in the details. New houses and additions
have fewer variables because the surfaces are new. This makes estimating the
time easier.
Windows and doors can take up to 65%
of the time spent painting an interior or exterior. Although I may need only a
few days to mask and spray the siding or walls, I always know that the trim—
notably the windows—will take another week or two. The following estimates are
for one side of doors and windows, including everything from preparation to the
finish coat. Bear in mind that these are professional estimates and should be
used as a reference point, especially if you're new to painting. All you really
need is a general idea of the time the project will take. Your focus should be
quality, not speed.
Windows involve the most detail, so
let's begin with them. Repainting a well-maintained window that opens (either
double-hung or operating) will take about 90 minutes. Older opening windows
that need extensive preparation will take twice as long. Because fixed windows
are one piece they only take half as long as windows that open will take. Vinyl
window cladding is a low-maintenance exterior innovation. Most homes built before
clad windows became popular in the 1970s have wood sashes that require much
more upkeep.
A hollow-core, flat door should take
from 90 minutes to two hours—about the same as a fixed window. A solid door with
four to six panels will take the same amount of time as a double-hung or
operating window, approximately three hours. Remember that doors also include
the jambs and casing (the trim around the door). Many front doors have windows,
which also add to the time.
Estimating the time it will take to
paint any surface depends on how the paint will be applied. Although windows
are usually brushed, doors and trim can be brushed, rolled, or sprayed, so the
time required to paint them can vary.
The height of the house is an
important exterior consideration. Due to the increased climbing and set-up
time, a two- or three-story house takes longer to paint than a single-story
house. A multistoried house also raises the question of whether to use ladder
jacks or scaffolding, which take time to move and set up.
Time estimates are another area where
a reputable paint dealer can help.
Estimating
Costs.
Your area estimate tells you
approximately how much paint and materials, such as caulk and sand-paper, you
will need for the job. Every can of paint has a recommended spreading rate
based on a surface that is "smooth, primed, and "non-porous." Of
course, not every surface fits that description. Although top rated paints
generally have a recommended rate of 400 to 500 sq. ft. per gallon, I've found
that most get closer to 533 sq. ft. per gallon. When estimating, it’s a good
idea to subtract 10% of the recommended coverage. When spraying porous surfaces
like stucco, I subtract another 15%—50 sq. ft. off my spread rate of 350 sq.
ft. per gallon. Again, your trusty paint dealer can help you estimate porous
surfaces.
Here's a cost estimate for a typical
interior room (I haven't included an exterior estimate because the variables
are simply too numerous)
A room that is 12 ft. wide, 16 ft.
long, and 8 ft. high, or 630 sq. ft., with three windows and two doors, will
take 4 gallons of paint. So, at $35 per gallon for a high-quality product, you
can plan on spending $140 for paint. Other basic materials, such as caulk,
masking tape and paper, spackle, thinner, and sandpaper, should bring the
material costs to $160.
A professional would take about 16 hours
to paint this room. The rates for labor range from $20 to $40 an hour, which
would total $320 to $640—far more than the cost of paint and materials.
According to the Decorating Contractors of America, only 8.3% of the
contractor's fee goes toward paint. The rest is overhead and labor.
Even painting one room your self
would save you enough to buy top-of-the-line brushes, rollers, and other
painting tools, and still come out ahead. I know plenty of people who buy
low-end equipment to "get through" their one painting project for the
year then throw everything away when the job is finished. That doesn't make
much sense, since they'll eventually have to go out and buy the tools all over
again. I've also found that low-end equipment gives low-end results and is
depressing to work with. Professional-quality tools will give you professional
results for years to come.
When you budget your paint job, don't
skimp on the top coatings, whatever you do. Many homeowners mistakenly think
that a middle-of-the-road paint bought at a discount chain is good enough.
However, cheaper paints contain no more than 15 ingredients, compared to
anywhere from 40 to 50 for top-of-the-line paints. More (and better)
ingredients allow high-end paint to go on smooth and thick and dry evenly.
Their coverage also is superior: One $30 gallon of paint covers as much area as
two $15 gallons, to within a few cents. This means fewer coatings and less
work. Lasting power alone makes quality paints a better deal. They will last,
on average, two years longer on exteriors, and two to four years longer on
interiors.
824 90th Dr SE suite B
Lake Stevens, WA 98258
phone: 425-512-7400
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