Benefit From These Painting Tools and Techniques

Successful Painting Tools and Techniques

This is a 4 article series on painting tools and techniques. Here in section 1 I will examine masking and protective gear. Later in article 2 I’ll examine ladders and scaffolding and in article three I’ll talk about brushes and rollers. Finally, in part 4 we’ll look at sprayers, caulk guns, wire brushes, braces and knee pads, and swivel hooks.

The painting industry has made tremendous strides within the last 10 years. Today there's a tool for nearly every situation. Even I'm impressed by the impressive devices arriving on the market, for example, dripless caulk guns, that have solved a messy problem.

Before you commence your project, have a minute to check your equipment. You'll probably need to stock up on several items. Make an entire list of what you need. Keep an eye out for tools that save time and labor. The more expensive equipment, such as sprayers and scaffolding, can be rented.

Using Protective Gear

Some people don't think it's necessary to wear protection gear when they're painting. I guess they think it's wimpy. But I've been around enough toxins to comprehend how dangerous they can be. Dust, painting mist, and vapors impact the lungs rapidly, and skin pores are an open target for solvents and dust borne particles. Don't be foolish... protect yourself.

Secrets To Respirators

A particle mask is preferable to almost nothing, but it doesn't form a good seal and it won't filter all the dust. If you do use a particle mask, get one with double rubber bands. A damp handkerchief tied around your face gives better protection than particle masks that use light-weight rubber bands.

Double cartridge respirators will be the safest solution. They'll give you the protection you will need for many vapors, mist, and dirt. Respirators come in three sizes. Ensure that yours fits. If it generally does not fit well, it will not work well. Checking the fit of a respirator is like evaluating the seal of your diving mask. Breathe in then hold your hand over the side valves. The mask is acceptable if it presses against your face and remains there while you hold your breath. Good respirators cost from $25 on up and usually come with replacement filters. Double cartridge respirators have color coded filters for different pollutants; be sure you have the right filter for the work at hand. Be sure to read the instructions, and remember that you should change the cartridges if deep breathing becomes hard or if you start detecting vapors.

Why You Need Protective Clothing

Respirators do a good job of protecting your lungs, but you need to safeguard the rest of the body as well. Having been accredited in lead abatement, I know that your body can only just eliminate an extremely small percentage of lead, even more than a 30 year period. Many painters make the error of believing that a little contact with dirt or VOCs won't harm them, but it all adds up as time passes. I always dress for protection, keeping at least one good Tyvek painting suit on the work site. Tyvek breathes well, weighs little, and offers good protection. The extra layer is somewhat warm, but I would prefer to wear a paint suit than be covered with dirt or overspray (on a hot day make sure to drink lots of water to prevent dehydration). In the event that you choose never to wear a painting suit, wear clothes that you won't mind turning into something resembling a painting palette.

I more often than not wear leather gloves, even when I'm brushing. They keep my hands clean and my grip dry. I carry two pairs of gloves if I'm painting more than one color, to ensure that I don't contaminate the colors. Commercial strength rubber gloves are another must. I wear rubber gloves to stain, to clean out brushes, sprayers, and rollers; to open, mix, and strain paints; and also to handle toxins such as paint thinners.

Rounding out my paint anywhere clothing collection are safety glasses or goggles to keep chips, dust particles, and spray mist out of my eye, and, if I'm spraying, a hood. If you spray without a hood, anticipate to spend tons of time washing paint out of your hair.

Worried About Masking?

Usually the area you're painting will have a finished floor or carpet and the proverbial ounce of prevention can save your day. Even if you are only painting one inside home window, masking the floor may be beneficial. Having an open can of paint makes me anxious if there isn't a drop cloth on the floor. I've discovered the hard way. Masking becomes even more critical if you're staining, because stain spatters all over the place. A few simple items can help you save a whole lot of touch up, cleaning up, and attempting to get paint from the carpet before your spouse sees it. Before I finally quit and admitted that my strategy wasn't perfectly right and dripless, I spent more time touching up than I could have. Touch up is a fact of painting life, but these days I do significantly less of it because I take the time to mask.

First, you need a drop cloth. Heavy cloth is often best, but drop cloths don't have to be expensive, professional painter's cloths. You can sometimes find reasonably large drapes at thrift stores, for the price of one thin clear plastic drop cloth. Look for drapes with vinyl fabric backing, for added waterproofing. I pull out the top stitching for an additional 3 inches of fabric.

The difficulty with plastic drop cloths is that they weigh next to nothing and billow everywhere. Plastic material works best when you can find 3 foot wide paper (such as the kind used for flooring insulation) to lie together with the plastic material. If I'm painting a big new home and I need to mask the whole floor, the plastic/newspaper masking system is inexpensive and works well.

An excellent masking system is critical whether you're brushing, rolling, or spraying the paint. All you need is masking tape, newspaper for the outer edge of the floor and baseboard, and a slim layer of plastic for the house windows and furniture. 3M makes a good masking system which includes special painter's tape and dispensers with pre-taped plastic material. If you've ever spent time scraping tape adhesive off house windows, you can appreciate advanced masking tapes. Commercial masking dispensers are available at professional painting shops and sometimes at rental shops. If a commercial dispenser is hard to find, simply buy a roll of heavy paper and use your wrist to carry the masking tape roll.

Some tapes need more stickiness for fixing clear plastic to rougher textures like walls. Other tapes need to come off without leaving adhesive on house windows and smooth surfaces. Always wait at least four hours before removing tape to avoid tearing the paint. But don't leave tape on for longer than 24 hours or it'll be hard to pull off.

Steps To Masking Floors

In addition to masking off the primary areas to be painted, it's also good prevention to mask main traffic areas and wherever you intend to store and mix the paint. Distribute all the required drop cloths, then clean the areas you will be taping with a vacuum, foxtail broom, or clean rag, to ensure a tight seal. As you mask, focus on obtaining a clean edge with the tape, and make sure the tape is securely attached.

Tape and paper dispensers are perfect for masking off the outer edge of an area. They ensure a clean edge along the floor and minimize clean-up. I take advantage of shorter pieces of masking (1 ft. to 2 ft.) for corners and closets. On long, straight runs I prefer going corner to corner with one long strip of tape, which reduces the amount of seams that should be taped. After the perimeter is set up, I use drop cloths for the remainder of the floor. For increased protection, I usually significantly overlap the masked perimeter with the drop cloth. On corners I also double the cloth to the inside, for extra security and stability.

Getting a tight seal with a drop cloth is critical when you're spraying an area, but guarding carpet or flooring with a sealed drop cloth is a good plan even if you're just brushing or rolling. A drop cloth will move if it isn't taped in place, and you'll wrap up on your knees cleaning paint off the floor.

Easy Method For Masking Walls And Fixtures

No matter how you intend to apply the paint, you will have to mask permanent fixtures such as the ceiling lights, fans, and door knobs. Even if you have excellent hand control, cutting in (edging) the accessories that aren't masked is frustrating, specifically for multiple coats of paint. To mask accessories, pull off enough paper and tape to cover the fixture, being careful to keep the tape just on the bottom of the fixture (newspaper also makes a good masking material for fittings). If possible, release the fixture covers and wall mounts to paint under them; this ensures a smooth border.

The quantity of masking that you should do is determined by the type of house painting you'll be doing. The only real time the walls need to be masked is when you intend to spray the ceiling and you need to keep the wall surfaces dry, for example, if the ceiling is getting some other color or finish. If the trim is clear coated or you would like to paint only the wall surfaces and ceiling, it makes sense to mask all over the trim, especially the windowsills.

How To Mask Windows

The sole time I mask windows is whenever I intend to spray. Taping home windows isn't quite effective. It takes too much time and paint still gets under the tape, and masking tape has a knack for really adhering to glass.

For interior or outdoor windows, I take advantage of the same system for masking walls. The one difference is that masking home windows usually is faster than masking whole wall surfaces. Masking windows and wall space is usually done with plastic material, which lets light into the room and is handy for covering large areas (paper is best for masking floor surfaces and trim). To measure plastic, I roll it out across the windows, cut as straight of a line as is possible, and tape the perimeter of the window. Then it's just a matter of sticking the plastic material onto the exposed tape, working from the top down and being careful to keep it straight and level.

Masking paper also works well to safeguard windows, floor, and molding from paint spatters. To safeguard windows, apply masking paper over the top of the window casing. The width of the paper will do to block almost all of the roller spatter. This same technique protects the floor and molding. If you're assured about your brushing and rolling abilities try using 1 ½ inch masking tape rather than masking paper.

About Masking For Spraying

Spraying calls for that anything not being sprayed should be completely masked. Because spraying requires such comprehensive masking, wait to mask until you're ready to spray. Outside surface spraying might require extensive masking, with regards to the number of colors and whether there are surrounding structures such as fences and electric power lines. When masking for spray, remember to be extensive. Overspray is hard to control, especially under windy conditions. The more you've prepared for overspray, the better. The time spent masking is a lot less than the time you would have spent touching up afterward. A tight seal with masking tape is critical because sprayed paint gets all over the place. Overspray is like the casual drip from a brush every so often... one is certain to get from you, no matter how careful you are. But you can lessen overspray by double checking before you spray.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

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PAINTS AND STAINS PART II

PAINTS AND STAINS - PART TWO

This is part two of a 2 part series of articles on paints and stains.

Problem Solved - Finally, Interior Paints Coatings for Each and Every Job

Do you ever wonder about the difference between interior and exterior paints? I once used exterior paint on an inside ceiling, reasoning that it would last longer. It could last longer, but as I then found out when I needed to touch up the ceiling only 2 yrs later, exterior paints will discolor on an interior surface. Exterior paints contain special additives made to withstand the outdoors. Interior paints have additives that help the paint dry to a durable, uniform surface finish.

Most of the advances in painting technology have been with latex. Actually, latex has overtaken oil-based paint in a number of areas: toughness and elasticity, as well as ease of application, clean-up, and disposal. Latexes have fewer VOCs than oil-based paints. Some, including the Pristine collection created by Benjamin Moore, are created with no VOCs in any way. Today's latexes are created with top quality pigments and binders that give them more body, so they go on thicker.

Latexes enjoy quite a lttle bit of level of popularity for interior applications, especially for walls and ceilings. Alkyds continue to be the professionals' choice for trim work because oil based paints are much easier to paint on detailed surfaces like molding and trim. However, that traditional approach is gradually changing as better latexes, including Pratt & Lambert's Accolade Interior Acrylic Semi Gloss, are introduced to the market.

Take The Headache Out of Finding Exterior Paint Coatings

Moisture can be an important concern for exterior paint selection. Every day a family group of four will create several gallons of vaporized water inside a house.

Combined with naturally occurring humidity, this can mean a a large amount of moisture moving through the wall space and siding. Dampness is highest in the baths and kitchen. If these rooms aren't sufficiently ventilated, water will migrate through the surfaces. Vapor barriers help to contain wetness, but vapor always seeks to leave. The structure of a home, the kind of vapor barrier they have, ventilation, and humidity all make selecting the right paint critical.

In wetter climates you require a paint that will let moisture go through the wood, so water doesn't get trapped under the paint and cause blistering and peeling. Latexes are porous and let moisture go through, unlike alkyd paints, which form a waterproof seal. Alkyds also don't flex with areas that expand and shrink, as wood does, especially in colder climates. Latex paints have more elasticity, allowing better adhesion.

I prefer using latex on all exterior surface areas, including wood siding, stucco, and concrete. Latexes withstand fading better than most oil-based paints, and they'll cover either oil-based or latex primer (most oils have to go on top of an alkyd primer).

Latexes do a great job of covering cement. Despite its hardness, cement is very porous, and oil-based paints don't always stick well. For very best durability, I would recommend latex enamel.

In general, if I know of a latex product that provides superior performance, I will choose it over an oil-based product that has to be cleaned with a thinner.

Latex only requires water. Thinners add yet another cost, are hard to dispose of, and usually end up spattered on my skin or clothes, no matter how careful I am.

Take The Headache Out of Using Stains

You could spend a life learning about stains and sealers, but there's nothing mysterious about them. The bottom line in determining which stain to work with is to familiarize yourself with the product lines available. Read the label, along with any product information you can get, and speak to the staff at a professional paint shop.

Outside stains come in oil based, varnish, polyurethane, and water-borne solvents. Stains have less colorant than paint and more solvents, giving them greater wood penetration. Waterproofing is important with exterior stains. Most include built-in sealants to increase toughness and help maintain the wood. The colouring in stains can be pigments, dyes, or both. A semi-transparent stain has more dye for grain penetration. A solid stain has more pigment for surface coating. Pigment is a finely ground coloring that doesn't penetrate the grain as deeply as a dye. That's why a pigmented stain is definitely used along with a sealer such as urethane or varnish.

Some high quality interior stains have dyes to penetrate and pigments to draw out the richness of the grain. Others contain only pigments, that are better to apply, combine, and touch up. Pigmented stains are lighter in color and bring out more of the wood grain. If you're looking for darker results, a dyed stain provides what you want in one coating (make sure to use a conditioner on porous wood, such as pine and birch wood, to avoid splotching). Dyed stains are extremely difficult to touch up. Every coating eventually will need touching up, so make certain to consider ease of maintenance in your use of stains. You'll get the best results by using better stains such as Minwax, Pratt & Lambert's Tonetic, Pittsburgh's Rez, or Wood-Kote.

If you want to avoid the watery nature of stains, try a gel stain, which had the majority of the water solvent removed. Gels are simple to use. They spread on, dry out fast, and cover evenly. Because they're colored with pigment, gel stains don't penetrate that well. They're a great choice for porous woods that are hard to cover evenly without a toner. Gel stains do a excellent job of showing off the grain on embossed metal or composite surfaces. I don't recommend using them for hardwoods, which require a good dye stain to emphasize the depth and beauty of the grain.

How We Improved Our Painting With Sanding Sealers

Sanding sealers are interior primers that both penetrate and seal wood. You can use them under clear coats or on top of stains as sealers. Sanding sealers are different from a sealer like polyurethane, which is not made to prime. They're similar to varnish, but diluted with solvents to allow better penetration for priming. The hardness of varnishes and lacquers prevents them from soaking into the wood pores. Sanding sealer can provide a better adherence for clear coats.

Shellacs tend to be put into sanding sealers to strengthen the resin and provide a quick drying agent. They also add an amber tone, so if you are by using a sanding sealer with shellac, make sure it will not impact the stain. Shellacs have a tendency to yellow aver time and contain toluene, which has a very high VOC content. Shellacs are slowly offering ways to new sanding sealer formulas with lower VOCs and better performance.

Alkyd resin sanding sealers likewise have high VOCs, although significantly less than their shellac based cousins. Pittsburgh Paints makes a slow dry alkyd resin sanding sealer without shellac known as Rez 77-1. This specific primer/sealer is wonderful for both interiors and exteriors. Pratt & Lambert's Latex Sanding Sealer has suprisingly low VOCs, but is strictly for interior wood and shouldn't be used under a water based polyurethane.

Oil-based sanding sealers can also be used to seal outside wood, especially decking, which is constantly exposed to sun and water. For color uniformity in areas like decks, you need to completely coat, or back prime, the lumber before it is in place, using the same sealer or stain. Olympic Water Guard, Messmer's UV Plus, Behr's, & most high end deck stains are excellent water repellent sealers that can also be utilized for priming exterior wood.

Wood and Stain Sealers for Interior Wood – Safely

Sealers, including varnishes, lacquers, urethanes, and shellacs, are added to the stain itself, applied as a top coat on top of a stain, or used as a clear coating on unstained wood trim. They can be used for any type of wood trim, including windows, doorways, and the casing around them. Although you can buy stain/sealer combinations, they have a tendency to yellow, are difficult to maintain, and don't endure as long as separately applied stain and sealers.

Varnishes contain oils such as Tung oil, a very hard, durable sealant that can be brushed on and dries slowly. Varnishes are easy to clean and maintain with soap and water accompanied by a wiped on varnish, which often keeps a wood surface looking ideal for years. Make sure there's no wax in your cleaner, because wax clogs wood pores. I favor using Hope's Tung Oil varnish for a wipe-on maintenance coat. Lacquer is a fast dry sealer that more often than not must be sprayed, since it becomes tacky almost immediately.

Polyurethanes do almost everything shellac does, but they're easier to maintain. While shellacs act like paint, polyurethanes act more like a clear coating that permeates the wood instead of sitting on top of it. Polyurethanes brush on and dry out quickly, with little smell and VOCs. They have more or less replaced shellacs as a clear sealer. Another reason urethanes have become such popular sealers is the fact they don't require sanding sealers.

The odors associated with many paints and stains can be more than simply offensive, they can be toxic. Solvent based varnishes, lacquers, and shellacs provide a ultra hard coating but contain high VOC levels. Water based sealers, like the stains, match the performance of several solvent based sealers, with fewer VOCs. The VOC content of water borne sealers such as Sherwin Williams Kern Aqua Lacquer average about 250 grams per liter, or 2 pounds per gallon, half the most common VOCs of oil-based lacquers. The ethers in water based sealers aren't combustible, another advantage, but they still have sufficient VOCs to warrant a respirator.

Although they resist yellowing, water borne sealers such as acrylic latex polyurethanes do have a tendency to raise the grain. They will also set up or "flash off" quickly at temps higher than 60°F. The very best working temperature for most water borne acrylic latex polyurethanes is between 50°F and 60°F, which lets them flash a bit more slowly. In cases like this, flashing-off simply means that the solvent evaporates and leaves the resins to complete the drying out process. A contractor I knew once used water borne latex polyurethane sealer that flashed off so fast he could only apply it between 5 A.M. and 9 A.M. Anything later than that was too warm.

Minwax makes very good water borne polyurethane, as do Pittsburgh, Pratt & Lambert, Benjamin Moore, and others.

Improved Exterior Stains and Sealers

Because of their better penetration and sealing power, most exterior stains sold today are oil-based. However, oil-based solid stains peel off as they get older, making them more difficult to maintain. A solid stain is like paint: It coats more than it penetrates. A latex solid stain peels less and is also much easier to maintain as it ages. However, I prefer oil-based products for semi-transparent stains. Added oil solvents let them penetrate deeper. A number of the better stains on the market include Pittsburgh Solid Color Latex Stain, Messmer's U.V Plus, Moorwood Solid Color Exterior Stain, Sherwin Williams Woodscape stains, Pittsburgh Semi-transparent Exterior Stain, Rez Deck Stain by Pittsburgh, and the Sikkens Cetol system.

Deck stains will often have more solids than a typical outside stain, which make them stronger. I would recommend buying a high-end stain that is semi-transparent or what's called a trans-oxide. Until just lately, the major problem with outside stains was their low UV resistance, but newer trans-oxides have finely ground metal mixed in for greater protection. A high end deck stain won't need a separate sealer coating, although you can add one (such as Olympic Water Guard) if you think extra protection is needed to combat moisture content and sun exposure. Better deck stains retail for approximately $35 a gallon and cover 300 to 400 sq. ft.

Avoid using deck stains which contain silicone. Despite their attractive price, they are not a good deal. Advertisements for silicone stains and deck sealers often show beaded up water on the deck, and many people are fooled into thinking that this is the indication of an effective coating. However, silicon deteriorates quickly, usually in a matter of months, leaving a discolored, waxy coat that is clearly a pain to eliminate. The broken down silicone also ceases repelling water.

"High build" coatings such as Sikkens and Messmers work remarkably well on exterior siding, nevertheless they are too soft to be utilized on your deck. Eliminating these coatings requires gallons of wood cleaner and a significant amount of work.

Water borne exterior stains, such as Sherwin Williams Woodscapes, incorporate the features of oil-based and latex coatings. They run and drip less than oil based stain, and dry faster, enabling two coatings the same day. Water based stains possess the resilience and flexibility of the latex stain, giving them lasting strength. They're a good choice for most applications. But bear in mind that cleaning up water borne stains can take work. There are a couple of oil components in the solvent which have to be cleaned. First use soap and water, then alcohol. Ask your supplier for specific cleaning directions for water borne stains, and read the label.

When In Doubt, Ask Questions

In the event that you still have questions about which paint or stain to utilize, please ask people in the know. A skilled, knowledgeable salesperson can answer any questions you might have. Look for a paint store with personnel having at least 10 years of experience in the business. Inquire further what has worked best for your unique application and ask to read a spec sheet on the product in question.

The answers you get will rely upon whom you ask. A paint store will try to sell you one of their products, after all, that is why they're in business. Painting contractors might not be impartial, either. They have to sell their expertise. I get plenty of phone calls from people desiring assistance with their painting problems. Most painters, including myself, don't mind giving one hour of our time, but if you want comprehensive answers, consider finding a contractor for a professional analysis. Rates vary, but I usually charge about $60 for a written and oral evaluation, depending on driving time included. A paid examination will let you know whether you should paint, stain, or re-side, as well as which coating might be best for finishing your project. Each painting job has unique conditions that warrant specific answers.

Sound Quality Painting

824 90th Dr SE suite B

Lake Stevens WA 98258

(425) 512-7400

Sound Quality Painting

Take The Headache Out of Finding Paint Coatings for Each and Every Job

Exactly What You Are Looking For - Paint Coatings for Each and Every Job

The right type of coating is crucial. If you pick the wrong paint, it will not matter how much time and money you may spend on your project. Too many flawlessly great paint projects deteriorate too early because the wrong primer and paint were used.

A dependable guideline is to match the existing finish. If you are painting or staining on top of latex paint, recoat with latex. You could have a myriad of choices if the material is uncoated, but you still need to consider environment, maintenance, and toughness to find the best covering for the job.

How We Improved Our Painting With Primers

Primer is the unsung hero of any quality paint job. It determines how well the finish is protected and exactly how long the paint will last. Knowing when to use primers messes up painters almost nearly as much as which primers to employ. Basically, you will need to use a primer if you are covering a new or bare surface; changing colors, textures, or finishes; or making a surface more uniform. About the only real time you don't have to prime is if you are recoating with the same paint and finish over a solid paint, for example, a flat latex paint over another flat latex paint.

To ensure compatibility, choose something that's part of a paint system. By paint system I am saying a primer and top layer manufactured by the same company. The labels of better paints always recommend specific primers and top coatings for various materials and conditions. If you don't want to cope with reading the small print, ask to read the spec, or data sheet, on a specific primer. If a spec sheet isn't available, ask to see what's known as a “specifier’s guide,” although these guides probably have significantly more information than you will ever need and you might need help translating a few of the terms and specifications.

Primers form a good foundation for the top coatings by penetrating, sealing, and bonding to all types of bare areas. Without first priming a fresh or reconditioned surface, you will discover that the top coatings ends up flaking off much earlier than you'll expect. While you can use additives such as Emulsabond, don't make the mistake of convinced that primers are optional, or can be made out of diluted paint.

Usually in a single coat most primers smooth out surfaces and places that have been scraped and sanded. Sometimes a surface will need a second coat of primer to ensure a smooth undercoat, but often one is enough. The home pictured below is an example of a job where two applications of primer were used. The bare wood siding was primed with an oil-based primer for extra adhesion. Then, a latex primer was applied over all the siding to give it a level base for the finish layers. Some climates almost demand a second coat of primer. I've heard of one contractor in Florida who always double primes to ensure that his jobs last. If you live near to salt water, I recommend that you take into account doing the same.

Primers highlight surface conditions by pointing out imperfections such as loose fibers in drywall and raised wood grain in trimming. You might think that a primer would even out a surface, but if you run your hand over a primed portion of trim it always feels abrasive. That's because primer makes out loose grain as it penetrates. After a dried primer has been lightly sanded, the smoothed surface is ready for layer. (Here's a tip: If you tint your primer the colour of the top coat, you can actually quicken the painting process by minimizing the number of top coats needed. Tinting is mainly used for color changes, although it is also handy for areas like bare drywall.)

Here’s What You Should Do When Priming Interior Wall Space and Ceilings

I would recommend using latex primers wherever possible. Ask your paint dealer for advice on the best primer for interior problem areas, such as the laundry room and bath, that need a good sealant and a water-resistant primer. I've always used alkyd primers in wetter parts of the house, although there are great latex primers that seal about as well. I prime most drywall interiors with latex, especially the bed rooms, living room, and closets. I usually spray a latex primer on new construction because new properties have sufficient vapor barriers. Also, I can paint an oil-based top coating over latex primer.

Older houses demand room-by-room decisions on what primer to use. If the house doesn't have a vapor barrier or good ventilation, you will require a primer that seals the wall space and keeps water from getting between the surface and the paint.

Latex stain blockers and sealers would be the response to priming damp rooms inside your home. These quick drying primers help condition surfaces with water, smoke, and tannin staining, plus they can be recoated rapidly, sometimes within the hour. Pittsburgh's Seal Grip is a superb latex stain blocker with few VOCs and all of the features of an oil-based stain blocker. Quick drying alkyd primers such as Kilz have pigmented shellac (with high VOCs) that also serves as a stain killer and sealer, but I don't recommend these for latex top coats, the shellac might show through the latex. If your latex has what's known as “good hold" or hiding properties, it'll maintain a consistant sheen over primer. You may assure compatibility by using a high quality latex stain blocker such as Seal Grip.

With regards to walls, understand that plaster and drywall will vary. Plaster is highly alkaline, in particular when it's new, and it can leach alkaline salts if it isn't properly sealed. There are lots of primers you may use on plaster, depending on its condition and on the top coating and finish that you've planned.

Drywall is much less alkaline than plaster. I usually prime drywall with a latex primer, unless the top coatings will be an oil-based paint, in which particular case I'll use an alkyd primer. (I know that we now have perfectly good latex primers for any type of top coat, but old practices are hard to let go of.) When painting new drywall, I will sometimes add joint compound to the primer for a little texture. Blended with primer, joint compound also helps even out over any sanding markings or roughness.

Primers For Interior Wood – Safely

When selecting primer, you should think about the type and condition of the surface, the type of paint (alkyd, latex, or epoxy) that is planned for the top coats, and the sort of finish (flat, semi-gloss, or glossy).

Most often I prime interior wood trim with an exterior alkyd primer, which seals new wood and replaces lost wetness in older wood. There are also good water-based enamel primers for interior wood. Special conditions, like the high moisture common in bath rooms and kitchens, may require a breathable latex primer if you cannot prime all around the wood. When you can completely apply primer the wood before it goes up, an alkyd primer will protect the majority of the trim from moisture. Assess conditions like these carefully and seek the advice of a professional if your job has many different variables

Method For Priming Exteriors

Even though I favor latex paint for the exterior, I still want to use alkyd primers on exterior wood. They simply do a much better job of priming bare wood. I'll use an alkyd primer if I know that the house does not have any major internal vapor problems and that the wood is in good condition (which often means that it is new), especially if I have access to the siding and wood trim before it goes on. It's always best to seal all around the wood (but not the ends) to give each piece its vapor barrier.

New redwood and cedar siding, as well as hardboard siding, needs special attention. Redwood and cedar will bleed tannins for a long period, even if the wood has air-dried for months. Before priming, you should wash out the tannin with a mild detergent, and follow this with a good rinsing. Redwood and cedar are quite porous, so you might need to wait a day or two to let them dry out. There are a good chance that more tannin resin will seep to the outside, so avoid priming with latex because the resin will bleed through. Instead, use two coats of an alkyd primer/sealer, and use high quality latex for the top layers. Any staining that happens after that can usually be washed off with special timber cleaners.

Hardboard siding, new or already coated, presents a special challenge. The lack of grain or anything resembling a porous surface makes hardboards such as Masonite difficult to bond to. When the wood is new then pressure wash and rinse it. If water still beads up, wash it again to eliminate all the wax. Seal new hardboard with a specially produced hardboard primer/sealer, such as Pittsburgh Paints Permanizer Plus Wood Stabilizer. When mixed with a top coating, Emulsabond makes a great hardboard primer. These and other top quality sealers also work very well on metal or vinyl siding, plywood veneers, textured wood, and other composite sidings.

Improved Metal Primers

Every metal should be cleaned of oil, grease, rust, or any other residue before you prime it, therefore the primer gets thorough contact with the surface. Most metal areas can be cleaned with a good thinner. Galvanized metals sometimes arrive from the factory with a stabilizer that can be tough to remove, and could need more than just thinner. Consult with your paint store if you wish to be certain a primer will work on new galvanized metallic surfaces.

You will discover primers for every type of metal. Ferrous metals, manufactured from iron and steel, should be primed with a rust inhibitor. Rust is nearly impossible to completely remove unless you sandblast it, and even then small pockets of rust can remain that will grow back under an unsealed surface or the wrong primer. Rust inhibitors totally seal the surface from exposure to air. Some companies refer to these primers as direct-to-rust or direct-to-metal (DTM) primers. Smaller jobs like handrails can be primed with aerosol rust inhibitors such as Pratt & Lambert's Effecto Spray Enamel, which I've had success using.

Other metals, including copper, aluminum, bronze, and brass, should be layered with zinc-chromate primer. Some paint companies have a specific primer for new galvanized metal. Older galvanized steel can be primed with a rust inhibitor like those mentioned previously.

As with any finish, the more time the primer has to flow and contact the surface, the better the adhesion. Quick setting primers don't flow much at all and stay right where they're painted, for good or for bad. A clean surface is especially important when you use an instant drying primer. Remember that some paint manufacturers recommend cleaning metals (and most other surfaces) with a thinner, while other companies recommend against using any type of solvent cleaner. Scan the directions carefully.

A vintage technique that still works well for cleaning new or old metals is washing the surface with a one-to-one mixture of vinegar and water. Vinegar is an all-purpose, inexpensive cleaner that will also etch a metallic material if mixed at that ratio. Etching metal works like sanding wood. It gives the surface "teeth" for better adhesion. That same ratio is convenient for new rain gutters or uncoated aluminum siding. However, it should not be utilized to completely clean galvanized metals, because the vinegar will damage the galvanizing.

Primers For Masonry Applications

Whether it's inside or out, masonry usually requires a primer or sealer that will resist water and alkalis. Alkalis are salts that leach out as time passes, leaving a chalky stain called efflorescence. The source of the efflorescence, usually water, must be resolved for alkali-resistant primers and sealers to help. New masonry has to cure for 3 months before you can apply primer and paint it, especially if it's highly alkaline, like stucco.

Sherwin Williams has a masonry primer called Loxon that withstands alkalinity up to pH 13; it could be painted on masonry that is seven days old. Stucco, which is basically coloured mortar and full of lime, is a great surface for Loxon, as is new plaster or poured concrete. Pittsburgh Paints can provide a primer for new, high-alkaline masonry, called Speedhide Alkali Resistant Primer; it's made for oil-based paint. Additionally you can add this primer to cured masonry with a latex top coat, but it is important that you use latex only on low alkaline masonry. In these circumstances I've had success adding Emulsabond to the latex for extra adhesion. I recommend it for many masonry applications.

Etching with muriatic acid used to be the only method to speed up the curing time of concrete. You can still etch if you are so willing, although if I never see another box of muriatic acid, that would be just fine. (If it etches concrete, imagine how well it etches epidermis!) Etching requires a bucket, hose, brush, gloves, and complete eye and skin protection, remember a respirator, particularly when you combine the acid with the water. Important: Add the acid to water, not the other way around. In the event that you add water to acid it'll splash and burn off anything it contacts. And combine it in the proper ratio, usually 1 to 3. Be sure you have brushes, sponges, towels, and least one 5 gallon bucket of clean water for emergencies, and another 5 gallon bucket for rinsing.

Reconditioning older, peeling cement floors can be a chore. It's best to keep them well looked after and recoat them regularly, before they have to be completely redone. Concrete flooring surfaces in really bad condition should be sandblasted, or you may use a fresh system called Peel-Away which makes prepping masonry a lttle bit easier (it's still no picnic). If the floor is in good shape, prep the floor and remove any trace of grease or wax with a good thinner.

For new concrete floors, I recommend a cement stain created by H&C or Okon; they come in water based and silicone acrylic. My inclination is the water based stain, since silicone is a wax that eventually will wash off. Concrete stain penetrates and seals without requiring scraping or sandblasting, and resists fading better than a top finish like latex.

Older, pre-painted cement floors have to be repainted with an identical top coating, whether latex or alkyd. A latex top coat is best applied over a typical concrete sealer, but Emulsabond also works well. An oil-based top coat requires an oil-based enamel or epoxy concrete conditioner. I would add Penetrol to the primer for a longer lasting bond.

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Things to Consider When Hiring a Painting Contractor

Consider Hiring a Painting Contractor

Undertaking a paint job always calls for some forethought beyond color choices and decorative themes. Painting a room is not difficult. In fact, it's nearly the perfect do-it-yourself house improvement project. Nevertheless it is a job that places demands on your time, financial limitations, and skills. So before you haul out the brushes, paint cans, and ladders, ask yourself a few pre-determined questions.

• How much preparation am I going to be required to do and will I have the time to do it?

• Am I up to the hard elements of the job, such as climbing ladders and moving furniture?

• Do I have the patience to learn a different skill, and can I accept that my initial progress might be slow and somewhat frustrating?

• Will I have the ability to live with a house left unfinished if I am called away or when I have to return to work after the weekend?

• Are there aspects of the job I could do but simply don't enjoy? Is there parts of the job I could do myself and parts I want to contract out?

If your answers to these questions make you decide to contract all or part of the project, then go about gathering bids and finding a contractor methodically.

First, talk with friends and neighbors and get their advice about contractors they used. Take a look at the work done for people you know so you can make sure the grade of the job meets your standards.

Then, contact at least three of the very best contractors to discuss the job you want to have done. Talk with each of them individually to understand the work and discuss the precise work details.

What You Ought to Ask Your Painting Contractor

• For each surface (including trim, stucco, aluminum siding, walls, and so forth), ask exactly what will be done to prepare it for priming including what type and brand of primer. Then ask your contractor about the final coat, including the type and make of the paint, how it'll be applied, its quality, and the number of coats. Make certain the contractor use high quality paint. An excellent acrylic latex paint may cost more initially, but its strength will save money in the long term.

• For exterior work, ask exactly what will be done to safeguard landscape plants. For interior work, learn how furniture will be protected and moved.

• Ask when the contractor can start the job and how long it will take. It's also advisable to know what solution will be available if the work is not completed promptly.

• Discuss the warranty on the job, how long it is, whether it covers both labor and materials, what kind of failures are covered (peeling, cracking, fading), and what will be done to rectify such failures.

• Make sure the contractor is bonded and insured. Bonding will reimburse your costs if the contractor does not complete the work. Insurance will cover any injury to any of the workers. Without such insurance, you may well be liable for such injuries. Insurance may also cover damage done to your premises.

• Ask each contractor for the names and contact information for several previous customers. Call a few of the references and ask if you can look at the contractor's work.

• Get written estimates from at least three contractors. Be skeptical of any bids that are significantly higher or less than the others. Bids from reputable contractors are usually fairly near the other painter’s for the same work. The estimate should break down material and labor costs and show payment terms.

Before you make your final choice, consider the contractor's demeanor. He or she should be responsive, punctual, and business like when returning calls or arriving for an appointment. The contractor should remember to reply to your questions and clarify details of the work.

Select a Painting Contractor

Once you've selected a professional painter, that contractor should submit a formal written contract for the work (unless the bid or estimate was already in contractual form). The document should spell out everything you've discussed with the contractor about your job. it must specify these exact things:

• the work to be achieved

• the materials to be used

• the starting and completion dates and remedies for failure to remain on schedule

• methods for resolving disputes

• procedures to make changes (change orders are alterations to the contract to which both parties must agree)

• evidence of insurance and bonding and licensing if required by local ordinance

Before you make final payment, inspect the job with the contractor, making notes about whatever needs correction (proper coverage, cleanup, and so forth). The contractor should correct the problems before you make final payment.

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FEATURES OF PAINTS AND STAINS

PAINTS AND STAINS

Almost every kind of surface, from drywall to concrete, needs protection from the elements. These harmful elements can range between raging blizzards to innocent looking sunlight on a living room wall. The total thickness of the paint that eventually ends up on the exterior of your house is usually about one tenth the thickness of your own skin, and interior paint is even thinner. We ask a great deal of that coating of skin. What it can do will depend on a variety of factors, like the quality and brand of paint or stain, and exactly how well the areas are prepared and painted.

Paint and stain should be durable, resisting fading and abrasion and allowing repeated washings. Interior paint should go on with reduced spattering. A quality interior stain or clear coating should resist fading, peeling, or yellowing, and also be easy to maintain, free from impurities or waxes that could collect dirty residue and make cleaning or recoating difficult. Outside paints should dry with a toughness that resists deterioration from all types of exposure, and an elasticity which provides for constantly expanding and contracting walls. With their deep penetration and level of resistance to ultraviolet (UV) light, the stains and finishes on your home's outdoor surfaces should give a similar high performance.

Historical Development of Paint and Stain

The oldest known paint was used by the painters of Lascaux, who ground natural pigments with water and a binder that might have been honey, starch, or gum. You may be wondering why these cave paintings have lasted a large number of years as the paint on the south part of your property is peeling after only three winters. Here's why: The frequent mild temperature, humidity, and dark interiors of caves are ideal preservatives. Your house, on the other hand, is exposed to all kinds of weather and conditions.

The Egyptians knew as soon as 1000 B.C. that paint could protect as well as decorate. Beeswax, vegetable oils, and gum arabic were heated and mixed with Earth and vegetable dyes to paint images that have lasted a large number of years. The Egyptians used asphalt and pitch to preserve their paintings. The Romans later used white lead pigment, making a formula that could exist almost unchanged until 1950.

The Chinese used oil from the Tung tree to cement the Great Wall, and also to preserve wood. The Chinese used gums and resins to make sophisticated varnishes such as, shellac, turpentine, copal, and mastic. The formulas and applications for those varnishes also evolved little in the following centuries.

Milk paint goes back to Egyptian times, was widely used up until the late 1800’s when oil-based paints were introduced. Odorless and non-toxic, milk paint today is being revived as an excellent interior paint. Cassein, the protein in milk, dries very level and hard, and can be tinted with other pigments. Like stains, milk paint should be covered with a wax or varnish, and is very durable.

Fashioned from hogs' bristles, badger and goat hair, brushes also evolved little for several centuries. Bristles were hand bound, rosined, and greased, then hand laced in to the stock of the brush. Hog's hair brushes, called China bristle brushes, remain a preferred brush for oil-based paints.

Pigments originally originated from whatever bore a color, from ground up Egyptian mummies to street mud. Most mineral or inorganic pigments came from rust, potassium, sea salt, sulphur, alum (aluminum), and gypsum, among others. Some extravagant works incorporated precious stones such as lapis lazuli. Hundreds of organic pigments from plants, insects, and animals comprised the rest of the painter's palette.

Paints and stains changed little from the time of the Pharaohs to the Industrial Revolution. A book on varnishes publicized in 1773 was reprinted 14 times until 1900, with only minimal revisions. However, the colder climates of northern Europe have brought about the need for more lasting paint, and in the 1500s the Dutch artist Jan van Eyck developed oil-based paint.

Starting in the Middle Ages lead, arsenic, mercury, and different acids were used as binders and color enhancers. These and other metals made the mixing and painting process dangerous. Paints and varnishes were usually blended on site, where a ground pigment was mixed with lead, oil, and solvents over sustained high heat. The maladies that arose from poisonous exposure were common among painters at least until the late 1800s, when paint companies commenced to batch ready mixed coatings. While contact with poisons given off through the mixing process subsided, contact with the harmful ingredients inherent in paints and stains didn't change much until the 1960s, when companies ceased making lead based paints.

World War I forced the U.S. painting industry to modernize. Manufacturers had to discover a alternative to the natural pigments and dyes that originated from Germany. They commenced to synthesize dyes. Today many pigments and dyes are chemically synthesized.

Innovations in the painting industry have extended well beyond pigments. Water-based latexes have gained in attractiveness as a safe, quality option to oil-based paints. Latexes have changed from simple "whitewashes" to highly advanced coatings that can outlast oil-based products. Both oil-based and latex coatings are emerging annually with notable improvements, such as the ground metal or glass that's now added to reflect destroying UV light.

A milestone in the evolution of coatings occurred in the very early 1990s with the introduction of a new category of paints and stains known as "water borne." Created by the need to adhere to stricter regulations, water borne coatings decrease the volatile organic compounds, or VOCs, within standard paint and stains. Dangerous and flammable, VOCs evaporate as a coating's solvent dries. They could be inhaled or assimilated through the skin, and create ozone pollution when subjected to sunlight.

THE MAKE UP OF STAINS AND PAINTS

Paints and stains contain four basic types of materials: solvents, binders, pigments, and additives.

Paint and Stain Solvents and Binders

Solvents will be the vehicle or medium, for the elements in a paint or stain. They regulate how fast a coating dries and exactly how it hardens. Water and alcohol are the primary solvents in latex. Oil-based solvents range from mineral spirits (thinner) to alcohols and xylene, to napthas. The solvent also includes binders, which form the "skin" when the paint dries. Binders give paint adhesion and sturdiness. The cost of paint is based in large part upon the quality of its binder.

Because water is the vehicle in latex paint, it dries quickly, enabling recoating the same day. The odor that you see when using a latex paint or stain is the "flashing," or evaporation, of the binder and solvents. The binders in latex are minute, suspended beads of acrylic or vinyl acrylic that "weld" as the paint dries. Latex enamels contain a higher amount of acrylic resins for greater hardness and durability.

Alkyds and oil-based paints are basically the same thing. The term alkyd comes from "alcid," a combo of alcohol and acid that acts as the drying agent. Both have the same binders, which might include linseed, soy, or Tung oils. Oil based and alkyd enamels may contain polyurethanes and epoxies for extra hardness. Alkyd paints come in high performance combinations such as two part polyester-epoxy for industrial use and a urethane revised alkyd for home use. Urethane boosts strength.

Water borne coatings use a two part drying system: water is the drying agent, and oils form a hard-drying resin. These new coatings match and sometimes out perform their oil-based cousins. They resist yellowing, are stronger, require only water clean-up, have little odor, and are non-flammable. One disadvantage: They raise hardwood grain and require sanding between coats.

Stain and Paint Pigments

Pigments will be the costliest component in paint. In addition to providing color, pigments also impact paint's hiding power - its capability to protect an identical color with as few coats as you possibly can. Titanium dioxide is the principal and most expensive ingredient in pigment. Top quality paints not only have more titanium dioxide, but also more finely ground pigment. Inexpensive paints use coarsely ground pigment, which doesn't bind well and washes off more easily.

Additives

Additives determine how well a paint contacts, or wets, the surface. In addition they help paint flow, level, dry, and resist mildew. Oil is the surfactant, or wetting agent, in oil-based paint. These paints have a natural thickness and potential to flow and level; they go on smoother than latex and dry more slowly, so brush stridations have a chance to smooth out. That's why oil-based paints tend to run on vertical surfaces more than latexes do.

Latex paint has been playing catch up with oil-based paint over the years. Today many latexes outperform oil-based paints and primers, thanks to thickeners, wetting agents (soapy substances that are also called surfactants), drying inhibitors, defoamers, fungicides, and coalescents. Defoamers keep latex paint from bubbling and leaving pinpricks (called "pin holing") in the paint as it dries. Bubbling is triggered when the soap wetting agent rises to the top as it dries. The better the paint, the less pin holing you will have. It used to be that if latex paint was shaken at the paint store you would have to let it to settle for a few hours. This really is no longer the case with better paints, that can be opened up and used right from the shaker without danger of pin holing.

Coalescents help latex resins bond, especially in colder weather. Oil-based paint, because it dries slowly and resists freezing, can adhere and dry in temps from 50°F to 120°F. With added coalescents and, believe it or not, antifreeze, some latexes can be employed in the same temperature range, and even lower. Some outdoor latexes can be safely applied at temperature at only 35°F. Companies including Pratt & Lambert, Pittsburgh Paint, and Sherwin Williams have removed the surfactants to help their latex paints be applied in lower conditions. As the wetting agents have been removed, the latex dries faster.

UV blocking chemicals have been added to paints and stains to help slow the aging process. Sunlight is responsible for much of the breakdown of any covering. It fades colors, dries paint, and adds to the expansion and contraction process that makes paint crack and peel off. UV blockers in paint may contain finely ground metals and ground glass which is now being added for even greater reflection of natural sunlight.

If you are in a region with lots of humidity, rainfall, and insects, you may need to consider adding a biocide or fungicide to your paint. Biocide deters insects, and fungicide counters mildew. Many coatings already contain some fungicide, but only in small concentrations because of strict interstate regulations.

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Making an Accurate Estimate for Painting

 

Inspecting the Condition of the Existing Paint

 

When inspecting most paint jobs, I carry a scraper, a dusting brush, a clean rag, and sometimes a wire brush. I also use those tools to inspect the caulk, wood, trim, and substrata such as masonry.

 

An inspection of the exterior will turn up a wide range of conditions, from sound paint to paint that is cracked or peeling. Exposure to a wide range of temperature and moisture conditions will wear down any finish over time, no matter what the climate. The south side of the house might be weathered and peeling, while the north side only needs a good cleaning and touching up. Be sure to look for water damage from the roof or near the foundation where water might pool.

 

An interior inspection is the same: Search out weak areas where the paint has loosened or cracked, while also checking the paint that has held up well. Check around the windows for loosened putty, look for grease build-up in the kitchen and mildew in the baths, inspect the condition of the trim, and examine the walls and ceilings.

 

Even paint jobs a few years old may show signs of paint failure—areas of flaking, peeling, cracking, and blistering. Paint that's covered with layers of grime actually may be in great shape, so first lightly rub an area to see what comes off. When a good paint or stain starts to go (at an average 8.5 years, although that figure fluctuates quite a bit), it gets a dull chalk on its surface. Chalking, or slight flaking of a semi-transparent stain, tells you that it's time to recoat. If all the surfaces are chalking without more severe failure, you're actually in luck. The whole process of recoating will take less work and paint.

 

Consider the Present Paint Condition

 

When launching painting projects, people often neglect to consider the condition of the existing finish. I recommend that you make a close inspection of the entire painting area, keeping the following questions in mind: How extensive will the project be? Is there any part of the existing finish that can serve as a match for the new finish? Is the existing finish in good enough shape to take another coat? Besides being full of surprises, this examination also will show you where to begin work.

 

When assessing the paint's condition, I make a point of inspecting the surface underneath the paint. It's not enough to notice where the paint is failing; any underlying problems must be addressed. A thorough examination of the existing conditions gives you a good starting point for the painting project and keeps re-dos to a minimum.

 

Planning a Job

 

There's more to buying paint than picking a color you like. Every house painting project has unique features, from room size to neighborhood architecture that should be taken into account for your home to look its best.

 

Design considerations

 

Interiors and exteriors present different design issues. When choosing colors for the inside, you should consider the rooms themselves. Do they feature lots of woodwork, or hardly any trim at all? Do you want to make a small room look larger, or vice versa? Don't forget to consider your furniture and carpeting or flooring, unless you're starting from scratch and want the furnishings to match the walls. You may want a bright kitchen and a subdued dining room. You may want to give each room a distinctive color, or you might choose one color for the whole house. Your possibilities are endless, but give them some thought.

 

Paint sheens present another consideration. Sheens range from flat, the least reflective sheen, through eggshell, satin and semi-gloss, to glossy, the most reflective. I recommend a high-quality flat or eggshell paint for most rooms because it's easy to maintain and touch up. A glossier finish is almost impossible to match, even with identical paint. The gloss fades over time, and not always evenly. A flat finish, on the other hand, has no sheen to fade.

 

Sheen can emphasize the different qualities of your rooms. Bedrooms usually look good with a "quieter" finish such as a flat or eggshell, whereas a dining room might benefit from a satin finish, which softly reflects light. Kitchens and bathrooms should be painted with a washable sheen such as a semi-gloss (flat latexes are hard to clean and tend to wash off). I've always found that a semi-gloss or satin finish sets trim off nicely. If you'd rather downplay the trim, use a flatter finish, such as eggshell. It's a good idea to stay away from glossy ceilings. They attract too much attention and tend to diminish the size of a room.

 

When selecting exterior colors, you need to consider wide-ranging factors, including the style and roof of the house, surrounding colors, and the climate. Start with the roof: The new color scheme should match it. I can think of a few houses that have vibrant exterior paint, but never look quite right because the color doesn't match the roof (until the roof is covered with snow).

 

Architectural styles also influence color choices. A Queen Anne-style house, with its many layers and patterns, will often have a shade and color for each architectural feature. In contrast, colonial styles usually have only one body color and one trim accent. But no law says you have to paint according to the style of house. You can choose to accentuate any favorite detail, whether it's your front door or another focal point.

 

Roof, style, brick, and stone fall into the "constant" category. Constants are the parts of the house that don't change often, and therefore are primary considerations in any color decisions. If you're seeking the advice of a paint store, I recommend taking a few photos of your house along so a color professional can better evaluate your home's constants.

 

Climate is a big consideration. You'll notice that region influences many color trends, such as the sharper hues used to brighten up the muted light of the Northwest. Cool pastels are better suited to the harsher light and dry terrain of the Southwest.

 

If you live in a country setting, the landscape may help determine the basic tones for your exterior. If you live in a city, you may be influenced by your neighbors' choices. Some neighborhood homes seem to be competitively individual in their design, while another neighborhood shares similar color schemes. What are the accent colors in your neighborhood?

 

Whatever criteria you use in your color decisions, beware of trends. Prevailing fashions may not suit you or the region where you live. The earth tones that swept the country in the late 1970s were designed to complement the countryside, but a lot of them ended up on urban houses, where they looked dull. Paint companies' brochures often reflect the current trend. Remember that there are thousands of choices available, despite the emphasis companies place on certain hues or colors.

 

Narrowing your selection

 

Every paint store offers brochures, color chips, and color fans that feature combinations for every style and taste. Many stores have refined the selection process with programmable computers.

 

I've found that paint chips alone aren't enough to help me make a good choice. The manufacturers' brochures state as much, in small print at the bottom of the page, where they note that "the color of these chips may not perfectly match the paint you order." That is because most brochures use color dyes, whereas paints are colored with pigments. About 80% of the people I work with say the color they get is darker than what they expected. For this reason, I recommend going a shade lighter.

 

Next, try out a quart of the color you like. Far too many homeowners rush out and buy gallons of what turns out to be the wrong paint, then blame the store. There are lots of reasons that paint can appear off-color, but color mixing is seldom one of them, especially if you go to a reputable store. That's why, starting with a small amount is so important. The first color you pick isn't likely to be the one you will keep, and you don't want to be stuck with custom-mixed gallons you can't use. It's not uncommon to go through 8 to 12 quarts in the search for the perfect shade. That may sound like a lot, but considering how expensive color consultants are, spending $50 to $100 for the perfect paint is a good buy. You should be able to do more than just "live" with the color you pick: You should be happy with it.

 

Whether you're matching an existing color or refining your selection, the process won't be complete until you've verified your choice with a "brush-out." 5 brush-outs let you see how the color you've selected actually looks before you invest in the total amount for the job. To do a brush-out, simply make one brush stroke from the mixed quart of paint on a detail or siding (or on a sample of that material). After the paint has dried (one hour for latex, two for oil-based paint), view it in different light and at different times of the day to see how you like it.

 

Brush-outs also are a good way to match touch-up paint. Touch-ups can be difficult because paints and stains age differently—some fade while others darken. Take a sample of the work to be matched to the paint store. Do yourself and the store a favor and take a big sample, not just a chip of the existing paint. Sometimes I'll take a window, a cabinet door, or a piece of siding. That way, the newly mixed paint can be applied directly to the existing paint, blow-dried, and held up to the light for a match test.

 

Estimating the Project Size

 

If you're planning on doing the painting yourself, your most important consideration probably will be the quantity of paint and material that you will need. The bulk of any estimate starts with measuring the total area of the paint project. To do this, you only need a tape measure, paper, and a pencil.

 

As you gain experience, you may notice other variables, such as the age and condition of the surfaces, figuring into the estimate. The more difficult estimates involve older structures that teem with "hidden agendas," or minor repairs that turn into major undertakings. Blisters on exterior siding may be caused by water evaporation from un-insulated walls. A small plaster crack may reveal large separations between lath and plaster that need to be fixed with screws and putty. The more you know about the condition of the surface and paint, the fewer surprises you'll have. Older houses can fool even seasoned pros, who estimate such mystery jobs carefully and often opt for a time and material contract.

 

Here are some easy formulas for estimating rooms, doors, fences, and other features.

 

Interior Estimates

 

To determine the area of an interior job, begin with the walls. Multiply the height by the length of the sides, and add the totals. Add the ceiling area to that total. Next, figure the area of the windows and doors: If the total is 100 sq. ft. or less, don't bother deducting it from the wall area. If it's higher than 100 sq. ft., subtract that number.

 

The "height-times-width" formula also works for trim, doors, and windows, if you take certain variables into account. If the door has four to six panels, double its area. If it's a French door, the area should be tripled. Handrails and balustrades are estimated by multiplying the height by the length, then multiplying by four to get the total surface.

 

Contractors have a fast method of calculating wall and ceiling area that is almost as accurate as the process I've just described. Simply take the square footage and multiply it by 3.5 in rooms with an 8-ft. ceiling. For rooms with a 10-ft. ceiling, multiply the area by 3.75. If you're painting a new house, you can simplify your estimating by asking the drywall contractors for the total area.

 

Exterior Estimates

 

The methods for estimating interior surface area can be used for some exterior portions of the house, including siding, doors, windows, and handrails. However, certain architectural features have their own formulas:

For smooth blinds, use the standard "length-times-width" formula. Double the area when computing slatted blinds.

 

Plain eaves, add 50% to the total area. For eaves with rafters running through, triple the area.

 

Plain cornices also get the standard measurement. Triple the area if they're decorative or fancy.

 

For latticework, measure the area of the lattices on one side and multiply by four to get the total. Plain fences require a doubling of the area. Picket fences would be multiplied by four.

 

To make all your estimates as close as possible, then discuss them with an expert at a professional painting store. Hard and fast estimates are difficult to come by, even for professionals. If in doubt, round your figures up—it’s better to have too much paint than not enough. Extra paint will come in handy for eventual repairs and touch ups. Properly sealed and stored, paint has a long shelf life. Any lumps or rust that is due to oxidation can be strained out.

 

Estimating the Project Time

 

Figuring the time for a painting job is more complicated than estimating area. Contractors know that time estimates are an art that takes a while to perfect; underbidding the time factor is a major banana peel for non-professionals. A host of variables affect a time estimate, especially for older homes: the amount of set-up and preparation, structural repairs, the number of colors and coats, the types of doors and windows, and the type of surface. As the saying goes, it's all in the details. New houses and additions have fewer variables because the surfaces are new. This makes estimating the time easier.

 

Windows and doors can take up to 65% of the time spent painting an interior or exterior. Although I may need only a few days to mask and spray the siding or walls, I always know that the trim— notably the windows—will take another week or two. The following estimates are for one side of doors and windows, including everything from preparation to the finish coat. Bear in mind that these are professional estimates and should be used as a reference point, especially if you're new to painting. All you really need is a general idea of the time the project will take. Your focus should be quality, not speed.

 

Windows involve the most detail, so let's begin with them. Repainting a well-maintained window that opens (either double-hung or operating) will take about 90 minutes. Older opening windows that need extensive preparation will take twice as long. Because fixed windows are one piece they only take half as long as windows that open will take. Vinyl window cladding is a low-maintenance exterior innovation. Most homes built before clad windows became popular in the 1970s have wood sashes that require much more upkeep.

 

A hollow-core, flat door should take from 90 minutes to two hours—about the same as a fixed window. A solid door with four to six panels will take the same amount of time as a double-hung or operating window, approximately three hours. Remember that doors also include the jambs and casing (the trim around the door). Many front doors have windows, which also add to the time.

Estimating the time it will take to paint any surface depends on how the paint will be applied. Although windows are usually brushed, doors and trim can be brushed, rolled, or sprayed, so the time required to paint them can vary.

The height of the house is an important exterior consideration. Due to the increased climbing and set-up time, a two- or three-story house takes longer to paint than a single-story house. A multistoried house also raises the question of whether to use ladder jacks or scaffolding, which take time to move and set up.

Time estimates are another area where a reputable paint dealer can help.

 

Estimating Costs.

 

Your area estimate tells you approximately how much paint and materials, such as caulk and sand-paper, you will need for the job. Every can of paint has a recommended spreading rate based on a surface that is "smooth, primed, and "non-porous." Of course, not every surface fits that description. Although top rated paints generally have a recommended rate of 400 to 500 sq. ft. per gallon, I've found that most get closer to 533 sq. ft. per gallon. When estimating, it’s a good idea to subtract 10% of the recommended coverage. When spraying porous surfaces like stucco, I subtract another 15%—50 sq. ft. off my spread rate of 350 sq. ft. per gallon. Again, your trusty paint dealer can help you estimate porous surfaces.

 

Here's a cost estimate for a typical interior room (I haven't included an exterior estimate because the variables are simply too numerous)

A room that is 12 ft. wide, 16 ft. long, and 8 ft. high, or 630 sq. ft., with three windows and two doors, will take 4 gallons of paint. So, at $35 per gallon for a high-quality product, you can plan on spending $140 for paint. Other basic materials, such as caulk, masking tape and paper, spackle, thinner, and sandpaper, should bring the material costs to $160.

 

A professional would take about 16 hours to paint this room. The rates for labor range from $20 to $40 an hour, which would total $320 to $640—far more than the cost of paint and materials. According to the Decorating Contractors of America, only 8.3% of the contractor's fee goes toward paint. The rest is overhead and labor.

 

Even painting one room your self would save you enough to buy top-of-the-line brushes, rollers, and other painting tools, and still come out ahead. I know plenty of people who buy low-end equipment to "get through" their one painting project for the year then throw everything away when the job is finished. That doesn't make much sense, since they'll eventually have to go out and buy the tools all over again. I've also found that low-end equipment gives low-end results and is depressing to work with. Professional-quality tools will give you professional results for years to come.

 

When you budget your paint job, don't skimp on the top coatings, whatever you do. Many homeowners mistakenly think that a middle-of-the-road paint bought at a discount chain is good enough. However, cheaper paints contain no more than 15 ingredients, compared to anywhere from 40 to 50 for top-of-the-line paints. More (and better) ingredients allow high-end paint to go on smooth and thick and dry evenly. Their coverage also is superior: One $30 gallon of paint covers as much area as two $15 gallons, to within a few cents. This means fewer coatings and less work. Lasting power alone makes quality paints a better deal. They will last, on average, two years longer on exteriors, and two to four years longer on interiors.

Sound Quality Painting
824 90th Dr SE suite B
Lake Stevens, WA 98258
phone: 425-512-7400

      https://soundqualitypainting.com

 

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